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Date of the journey:- October 2019
Distance travelled:- 720 miles
Our time spent in Aktau was used to carry out research on getting to our next destination of Khiva in Uzbekistan. With Kazakhstan being such a vast country the onward journey would require careful planning.
The sensible option for the first part of the journey was to take the sleeper train to Nukus in Uzbekistan. It wasn’t possible to book the train online. A pop up kept telling us that there was no space available.
Our accommodation at the Aktau Hotel rang the train station on our behalf. The next train available required us to stay a further night in Aktau. The purchase of tickets was only possible at the ticket office, 20 Kms outside Aktau in a town called Mangystau.
The following morning we made the hour-long round trip to purchase tickets from the station. The taxi cost 3000 Tenge for the round trip.
Having not been able to pre-book this part of the journey. Not knowing when we would actually arrive from Azerbaijan. Platzkart were the only seats available. The single ticket from Aktau to Nukus in Uzbekistan cost 13400 Tenge per person and had to be paid in cash. ATM’s are available at the station. The train departure was at 1000 hrs the following day. The journey being 30 hours. See our Kazakhstan travel tips & advice for more details.
On the morning of departure. We got a taxi from our hotel back to the train station at Mangystau. The taxi cost 2000 Tenge for the half-hour journey.
The station had a security checkpoint. All bags were put through an X-Ray machine.
The train tickets we had were printed in Kazakh. We had no idea as to which carriage we were in, let alone which beds. After a short wait, the train pulled into the station. A steward stood at the door of their carriage when the train stopped at the station. Then the madness began. People getting the train all had multiple bags. We were trying to get on, whilst other passengers were pushing passed, trying to get off to get the rest of their bags.
It didn’t take long for the chaos to die down. Some help from our steward and we soon found our beds. Our tickets were for the upper beds in the platzkart carriage. There was ample storage for everybody’s luggage and bags. Even a fridge freezer came onboard.
Each bed has a thin mattress, pillow, and blanket. The steward provided clean bed linen and a small towel for each occupied bed.
The bottom beds have the benefit of a small table between them. At the end of each carriage are a hot water boiler and the toilet. Not great but usable. Needs must on a 30-hour train journey. Toilet paper is not provided.
There was no buffet carriage. Enough food and drink for the journey needs to be taken on the train. The train stops throughout the journey. Giving sufficient time to get off and buy food and drink from the sellers on the platform. Pot noodles are a popular food choice as there is a hot water boiler at the end of the carriage. Don’t forget a spoon or fork to allow you to eat them.
The train left Mangystau on time. Rattling slowly across the vast open flat steppes. Passing horses and camels along the way. Locals were initially very intrigued about their fellow Western passengers. They were all generally very nice and always willing to help.
Our 6 bunk section consisted of us, 2 older women, a man and a younger woman with a young child. In fact, there were a number of young children and babies travelling with their parents in the carriage. All were very well behaved.
There was a very long stop at Beyneu for a change of locomotive. The train just sat in a siding for hours. It was not possible to use the toilets while the train was stopped. The steward told us to get off for the toilet. No toilet insight so a wilderness wee it was.
The Kazakh authorities came on board to complete the border control formalities. Each passenger individually taking their passport to the immigration officer. Formalities complete, the train klanked off again.
About 2 hours later the steward passed through the carriage waking everyone up. Yet another stop for the Uzbekistan border control. Passports were individually checked again with each passenger being called forward.
Arrival in Nukus saw a complete change from the previous 30 hours of the baron landscape. The station was modern. A plethora of taxi drivers huddled around the exit gate, waiting to pounce on us as we left.
Nukus was just an overnight stop. As soon as we exited the station, we went and had something to eat. Then made our way to our accommodation Nukus guest house.
On the advice of our host at the guest house, we made the decision to get a taxi to our next destination of Khiva. They organised it for us at a cost of 30 USD for the 2.75-hour journey.
The roads in Uzbekistan were dreadful, huge potholes and mile upon mile of unmade, dusty tracks. The scenery along the way…….. sand, sand, and more sand.
Arrival in Khiva was both a relief and a surprise. We had arrived without breaking an axle on the vehicle……..The taxi dropped us at the Itchan Kala west gate. From there, we walked the 6 mins to our accommodation at the Khiva Abdulla Guesthouse.