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Darjeeling to NJP railway station
NJP railway station to Guwahati railway station
Date of the journey:- January 2020
Distance travelled:- 301 miles
Having completed our time in Darjeeling, it was time to move on. To get to our next destination of Guwahati, meant a shared jeep ride back down the mountain from Darjeeling to Siliguri. Then a taxi out to New Jalpaiguri Junction railway station. To catch the 1330 hrs train to Guwahati a 6-hour 20-minute journey.
Tickets had been purchased the day before in Darjeeling. From the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway station for 1410 Rupees each for AC3 class including food. This was on the DBRT Rajdhani train, number12424. Bought under the tourist quota, and more expensive than the general quota, that had sold out. For more information on the trains and ticket quotas, please see or India travel tips & advice page.
We got up early, packed our bags, and had breakfast. Leaving our accommodation at the Hotel Villa Everest for the 15 minute walk to Chowk Bazaar. From there we were going to get a shared jeep for the first part of our journey, down to Siliguri shared jeep stand.
On arrival at Chowk Bazaar, just after 0900 hrs. A jeep was waiting with 2 seats left, perfect you would have thought. Unfortunately, these shared jeeps, which, when manufactured, have 8 passenger seats, are expected to seat 10. Meaning 4 people sitting on each of the 2 rows of bench seats designed for 3 and 2 people in the front with the driver, one of which would have the gearstick between their legs.
Anyway, unless we were people of very small physical stature, which we are not. The laws of physics said it wasn’t going to happen, not for this 3-hour journey.
Opting for the next jeep and told it would leave in 20 minutes. We should really have known better than to believe that. We bought 3 seats for the 2 of us, at a cost of 150 Rupees each thus ensuring our comfort on the journey.
Time went by, with nobody else arriving. It seemed that the only way we were going to catch our train, was to buy more seats to fill the jeep. Drivers won’t leave unless they are full. So after an hour’s wait we purchased another 3 seats and the jeep promtly left.
Time was against us, it was already 1000 hrs and the journey to Siliguri was going to be around 3 hours. And a further 30 minute drive, to NJP train station. Our train was due to depart at 1330 hrs.
Just our luck, the driver of the jeep was the only one we have ever come across in India, who actually drove sensibly. Well, actually his attention was more focused on talking with the ladies sitting in the front with him, who were feeding him with nuts.
With us, clock watching all the way down the mountain. The driver busy playing western music on the sound system. The man in the back serenading his girlfriend over the phone to Stevie Wonder’s ” I just called to say” I love you” it was a tense time. To make it worse the driver stopped on 2 occasions and just didn’t seem to comprehend our urgency in getting to Siliguri.
Eventually, we arrived 15 minutes earlier than we expected. But even that was leaving it tight for time. Our train was due to depart in 45 minutes we still had a 30-minute drive ahead of us. Speedy, our nickname for the driver, took what seemed like forever to unload the luggage from the roof.
The train was departing from NJP station, just outside Siliguri. A short taxi ride from the shared jeep stand to the station was required. Fortunately, for once, we were happy to have the kettle of taxi vultures approach us. Observing our vulnerability and haste, they circled us and inflated their prices. We would rather have missed the train than being ripped off by these praying vultures.
Billy the kid of India
Then, through the crowd, came our saviour in the form of a tuk-tuk driver. Offering to take us to the station for a fair and sensible price, guaranteeing that and he could get us there in 20 minutes. The crowd of vultures parted with mumbles of disapproval as we loaded our backpacks into the tuk-tuk.
The driver got in, looked at us, turned to the side, and shot a mouthful of spit onto the floor. Just like a Western film. Billy the kid meant business. He lit up the wheels of his tuk-tuk and we were off into the midday traffic chaos of Siliguri.
Billy should have been working in the textile industry, his weaving skills were that good. We thought that this was going to end one of 2 ways. Getting the train or having a crash. This man must walk like John Wayne. He is the only driver with cojones big enough to challenge a state bus and win!
We charged along the streets of Siliguri. One wheel lifting off the ground as we cornered, horn blasting, and people diving for cover. Billy knew his vehicle, there was barely a hair’s width between us and some of the other traffic at times. Usually, we would harshly criticise drivers like this, but on this occasion it was acceptable when we went down the wrong side of the road, flying past all of the stationary traffic.
Exactly as Billy said, we arrived at NJP station in 20 minutes. Pulling up outside, he turned and shot another mouthful of spit out of the tuk-tuk sizzling as it hit the ground. We had made it in time for our train and had survived to tell the tale. The journey cost 300 Rupees, and Billy got a handsome tip.
Thanks to the hero tuk tuk driver getting us to the station quickly, we managed to catch our train. Fortunately for us our ticket price included meals, as we didn’t have enough time to get anything prior to boarding.
Departure was at 1330 hrs. Soon after we were given a bottle of water each and our tray of lunch.. Lunch consisted of chicken curry, dal, rice and rotis. Dessert followed in the form of ice cream.
Once the train had made its way slowly out of the city, it passed through more tea plantations and lots of flat agricultural land. About 2 hours into the train journey, the train steward brought the afternoon tea tray. This consisted of a veg sandwich, samosa, a sachet of tomato sauce, a packet of peanuts, a cake and a cup of tea.
The train arrived at Guwahati railway station 20 minutes late. Exiting the station there were plenty of taxis and tuk tuks to take us to our accommodation. We took a 5 minute tuk tuk journey to our accommodation at the Debadaru Guest House which we booked through Booking.com.