View the route
Date of the journey:- October 2019
Distance travelled:- 287 miles
The next leg of our adventure was to go from Sighnaghi to Baku in Azerbaijan. Too far to complete in one day. So we chose to make an overnight stop in Sheki.
Sighnaghi to Sheki didn’t go to plan
It was our intention to get a marshrutka from Sighnaghi to the next town of Tsnori. From there we could get another marshrutka to the Azerbaijani border. Leaving Vigor Hotel, we walked the 10 mins to Sighnaghi Bus Station. Only to be advised that the next marshrutka to Tsnori wasn’t leaving until Monday morning, it was Saturday. 😲
Not wanting to stay in Sighnaghi any longer, we got a taxi to Tsnori. 15 mins later the taxi pulled up at Tsnori bus station. The driver asked for the marshrutka going to the border, again, no marshrutka until Monday. 😲
Some discussion between ourselves and after some bartering and laughter with the driver we finally, agreed on a price to take us to the Azerbaijani border. 50 GEL from Sighnaghi. The total journey took about 45 minutes.
Crossing the border
Crossing between Georgia and Azerbaijan was a simple process. It took approximately 45 minutes to complete.
Money exchange kiosk
At the point we were dropped off on the Georgian side there was a money exchange kiosk. We changed our remaining Georgian money here. Knowing that we required Azerbaijan Manat for a taxi on the other side of the crossing.
British nationals (visa)
British nationals don’t need a visa to enter Georgia for visits of up to one year. So just an exit stamp at the Georgian passport control. Only a 5-minute walk across the bridge to the Azerbaijani passport control. British nationals travelling to Azerbaijan need to get a visa in advance.
The Asan Visa service
This is the official portal for getting an e-Visa:- The Asan Visa service. It is valid for 30 days, within a 90 day period and is a single entry. An e-visa application takes 3 working days to process. Emailed to you when granted. The total fee for the application is 23 US Dollars (20 USD for the application and a 3 USD service fee.
Be aware of other agencies claiming to be the official e-Visa centres. They charge a huge service fee, up to 140 US Dollars per person for this simple application.
“Welcome to Azerbaijan”
With a smile, the officer greeted us, “welcome to Azerbaijan”. Guy was asked where and how long he was intending to stay in Azerbaijan. On the other hand, Tania, who passed through first, was asked nothing. Good to go the officer proceeded to stamp our passports. 🛂
Through the door into the customs area for our backpacks to go through the X-ray machine. Again Guy was questioned, this time did he have a knife in his bag and if so the customs officer wanted to see it. On production of a Gerber multi-tool, the officer said ok and waved him through.
Azerbaijani side
Outside on the Azerbaijani side, we were greeted by ten or so taxi drivers. Research told us we would have to get a taxi to Balaken. From there we could get a marshrutka to Sheki. Bartering with the taxi drivers got the price down from 10 Manat to 8 Manat. The journey to Balaken Central Bus Station took approximately 20 mins.
The driver dropped us adjacent to the marshrutka that was going to Sheki. Leaving at 1400hrs meant an hour’s wait. This gave us the opportunity to have a drink and stretch our legs before the 2 hours 45-minute journey.
The marshrutka dropped us off at the Central Bus Station Sheki. Charging 4 Manat per person.
Azerbaijan first impressions
Our first impressions of Azerbaijan were very positive. Sheki is an agricultural region. Fields of tobacco, grazing sheep, and cows everywhere. The roads vary from being perfectly smooth to extremely poor in places. This made the journey slow but gave us the opportunity to take in the scenery.
People in Sheki were very kind. After a 17 min walk, we had trouble finding our accommodation. We asked a gentleman if he knew where it was. He spoke no English, we spoke no Azerbaijani but he rang the accommodation.
Unfortunately, they didn’t answer. He bundled us in his car and drove us to where he thought it was. Not being where he thought, he asked around with no luck. Ringing the accommodation again, he got an answer. Then he drove us back to within 50m of where we started. Our accommodation was at the Sheki Guest House, booked through Booking.com.
Guesthouse (Sheki)
The Guesthouse tried to charge us double the amount our Booking.com confirmation stated. The room was large and clean enough but smelled of cigarette smoke and the bathroom had a pungent odour. Our room was adjacent to the staff room. The member of staff working that night was playing on his mobile phone. So loud, we had to ask him to turn it down so we could sleep.
Being on a room only basis we wanted to get some breakfast prior to our long road trip to Baku. Leaving the guesthouse, we walked the 17 mins back to the Central Bus Station. Locating the marshrutka that was bound for Baku was simple. Paying the driver the 9 Manat per person fare. There was sufficient time to have breakfast at the bus station cafe, prior to departure.
The cafe was basic, tables outside, some bread, an omelette, and tea. 4 Manat for both of us. Just finishing our breakfast Guy received a tap on his shoulder from the driver. The marshrutka was ready to depart.
The journey to Baku
The journey was made up of two distinct halves. Initially passing through the agricultural countryside. Shepherds herding sheep or cows, beautiful mountains either side of us. Typical country roads, rough and in desperate need of some repairs.
The marshrutka climbed slowly up the mountain. Lush green landscape being replaced by treeless sandy hills. But the road turned into a very well maintained dual carriageway making the run into Baku more comfortable.
The journey to Baku took 5 hours and 50 minutes. Being dropped off at the Main International Bus Station on our arrival. A huge bus terminal complex.
Metro
Our accommodation in Baku was located in the Old Town. To transfer from the bus station to the Old Town required a journey on the Baku Metro.
Tip 💁
It is prohibited to take photos and videos on the metro trains and stations.
Baku Metro is open every day from 0600 hrs to 0000 hrs. From August 2015, the fare for the metro is paid through the “BakiKART” system.
One journey costs 0.30 AZN.
There are two types of cards. The rechargeable plastic card and the limited use paper ticket. Both are available from the BakiKART machines located at the entrance to the metro.
Select either the “BakiKart” or “BakiKART limited use” option that is required.
If selecting the BakiKART option, the 2 AZN price of the card is displayed on the screen. Put the money in the machine. The amount entered is displayed on the screen. If the amount entered exceeds the value required, the excess amount will be credited to the card.
Be warned ⚠️
Machines do not give change. Credit on this type of card can be redeemed at some metro ticket offices. The 2 AZN for the card is non-refundable.
If selecting the BakiKART limited use option, the 0.3 AZN price of a single journey is displayed on the screen. There is also a 0.2 AZN fee for this type of ticket. Select the number of trips, up to a maximum of four. Put the money into the machine.
Be warned ⚠️
Machines do not give change. There is no refund of any type for the limited use type of card.
Ticket machines are simple enough to use. The 2 tickets for the hour-long journey to the Old Town cost 0.80 Manat. (2 x 0.3 AZN for the tickets and 0.2 AZN fee).
The journey to the Old Town metro station of Icherisheher started at the Main International Bus Station stop of Avtovaghzal. From there it was a short ride on the purple line to the Memar Ajarmi station. A change to the green line was required here to get to the 28 May station, for another change. This time onto the red line for the final part of the journey to Icherisheher station.
The metro system is impressive and spacious. Long and fast escalators transport passengers to platforms. None of the metro trains we took were crowded although it was a Sunday afternoon when we used it.
The Old Town
A maze of tiny rabbit warren cobblestone streets. Weaving through the stone building with timber balconies overhanging the streets. Google maps are useless for locating accommodation and street names. Showing no match or even showing incorrect locations.
Guesthouse
Our accommodation was at the Twin Castle Boutique Hotel, booked through Booking.com. Located a 7 min walk from Icherisheher metro station. On arriving at the hotel we were told that they were full. On production of our Booking.com confirmation. We were advised that the hotel had a “booking system” problem and there was nothing they could do.
The receptionist offered us an alternative hotel Royal Castle Boutique Hotel. This hotel just happened to be their sister hotel. As it was getting late, we went for it. The receptionist took us the 5 min walk to the Royal Castle Boutique Hotel. Unfortunately, this alternative hotel wasn’t to our liking. Contacting Booking.com, we advised them of the situation. Booking.com was brilliant. They found us another hotel, Buta Hotel, which was to our liking.